What do you think about when you hear the term Hyperfocal Distance? Numbers and complicated math…right? When we talk about hyperfocal distance with our students, we sometimes get a skeptical look or two… and we can understand why. After all, it is a difficult concept to understand. Over the years, it has moved into a theoretical realm. People often talk about it but they seldom use in practice.
Here are a few myths that may be responsible for creating that perception.
Myth #1: It is difficult to use in the field
When you think about hyperfocal distance, what do you envision? The first thing to comes to my mind is complex math with several variables. Most photographers are under the impression that it takes time to run through calculations and set up your camera. They often believe that, if they do try to use it, they may miss that gorgeous sunset or sunrise as the light is quickly changing.
Nothing can be further from the truth. We use Hyperfocal Distance to setup our camera’s focus regularly. How? By using a simple four-step workflow that takes less then a minute and allows you to capture gorgeous photos like the one you see in this article.
Myth #2: You need an app to use it
An App (or a hyperfocal distance table) is invaluable when you first start to learn about hyperfocal distance. With our Hyperfocal Distance Course, we provide our students with a simple hyperfocal distance chart. However, it is not always ideal to use the app or chart. Our workflow involves memorizing hyperfocal distance for 3-4 focal lengths and using that knowledge to set up camera’s focus to get sharp photos.
For example, the above image that was shot at 21 mm, using the hyperfocal distance of 24 mm that I had memorized. Why does this work? Because the acceptably sharp limits for a 24mm is a subset of 21mm focal length.
Myth #3: Hyperfocal distance is different for full-frame and crop body cameras
Most apps recommend that you use different circle of confusion (COC) parameters for full-frame and crop body cameras to account for the different pixel sizes. This creates a different hyperfocal distances because the COC for crop body is typically smaller then that of a full frame body. However, it is important to remember that the COC simply defines the acceptable sharpness; there is no reason to NOT use a COC for a crop body camera on a full-frame camera. Using the smaller COC of a crop body on a full-frame camera yields sharper photos and simplifies your workflow.
Myth #4: You need precise distance measurement for hyperfocal distance
Accurate distance measurements do help with your hyperfocal distance workflow, but a distance measuring tool is not necessary. By conservatively estimating distances, you can easily come up with a sharp photos. Our Hyperfocal Distance Course provides you with a 10-page Advance Workflow Insights PDF that shows you why conservative distance estimates work.
Myth #5: Correct use of hyperfocal distance guarantees sharp photos
It is true that hyperfocal distance allows you to precisely set your focus so that everything in between half the hyperfocal distance and infinity is acceptably sharp. However, sharpness does not depend on focus alone. Camera motion, subject motion by wind, quality of your lens, weather and other factors can greatly impact the sharpness of your photo. If you are trying to use hyperfocal distance in a forest on a windy day, the trees that are affected by the wind may appear blurry.
Now that we have debunked these popular myths about hyperfocal distance, are you ready to add it into your arsenal? Our Hyperfocal Distance course shows you how we use this powerful concept in practice and come away with sharp photos every time. We share our simple workflow, give you practical tips, and show you how we use this powerful concept in real world situations.